舌尖上的美食 第29期:土锅子 腾冲马帮菜 Hotpot in Earthenware

Hotpot in Earthenware

土锅子-腾冲马帮菜

As another dish in the series of Dish for Horse Drivers, it is similar to the common Hotpot except that the vessel filled with food is made of pottery, which excels in preserving the heat and the taste. It is served as a welcome dinner for horse drivers, namely, a group of businessmen on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, when they finish the trade and come back home. Traditionally, the wife of the leader in the group is in charge of making the dish, which is by no means an easy job. To retain the original taste of the food filled in the earthenware, it must be boiled in chicken soup, ham soup or pork leg soup without any seasoning. Furthermore, rules must be obeyed to render the dish successful. Firstly, the food must be put in place with meat at the bottom and vegetables on the surface. Then, the one which can be boiled for a long time should be lay under the one that cannot. At last, to make it not only pleasant to tongue but to eye, food which is seemly and attractive should be put on top.

“土锅子”这道菜和火锅差不多，但它是烧制的粗制陶器，更容易入味。据说当年大马帮安全归来，马锅头的夫人会备上它来为凯旋的马帮接风洗尘。炊锅的汤水十分讲究，一般用原汁鸡汤、筒子骨汤或火腿骨汤，不另外添加佐料，以保证质地鲜甜。炊锅的繁杂，在于荤素材料的层层码放，“底荤上素”和“耐煮在下鲜嫩在上”，并突出重点考虑看样，把工艺最复杂、味道最有号召力、看样最好的，置于上层。