舌尖上的美食 第28期:腾冲马帮菜 赶马肉 Meat for Horse Drivers

meat for Horse Drivers

腾冲马帮菜-赶马肉

In winter, it is extremely chilly on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, a passage vital for business between China and South Asia. A group of businessmen, who ride on the horse, must press on even in the most unfavorable weather. Since their images are always associated with horse, they are also entitled “Horse Drivers”. Aside from commodities, the second important thing they must carry is cured meat, the food suitable for the journey. Being suitable means the food must be easily cooked in a short time for the extension of time dwelling on the Road is tantamount to the accumulation of danger. Traveling day and night, they wish they could finish the trade as soon as possible and head home staying with their family. Therefore, they are always having the meal in the simplest and quickest manner. They simply take out the cured meat, cut them into pieces and simmer them in the covered pot. Sometimes, if the fresh meat is available in the market, they will cook the fresh one instead. The dish is thus called “meat for Horse Drivers”. Being simple and convenient, it is the optimal choice for businessmen on the Road.

腾冲作为茶马古道的要冲，民间自然有马帮菜传承。其中最负盛名的就是“赶马肉”。它实际就是焖肉块。当年的赶马人会随身携带干腊肉，吃饭时，取出来剁成大块，焖上一大锅，当然，如果遇上集市能买到鲜肉，他们就会用鲜的五花肉代替腊肉。 赶马人在路上的每一天都冒着生命危险，行程多一天就多一份不安全，因此日夜兼程，饭菜以简单、方便为原则。“赶马肉”就成了最佳选择。