农场到餐桌 再回到农场 City Chefs Gone Country

Prairie Whale, Great Barrington, Mass.

马萨诸塞州大巴灵顿的草原鲸鱼餐厅

As the co-founder of the Brooklyn restaurant group Marlow & Sons (Diner, Roman’s, Reynard at the Wythe Hotel), Mark Firth is responsible for popularizing a certain kind of New York eatery, one that brings the country to the city with food and décor at once rustically understated and shrewdly refined. But several years ago, tempted by visits to the farms from which he was sourcing seasonal ingredients, Firth decided to make the reverse journey, and moved to the Berkshires. When a career as a farmer proved unsustainable — ‘‘We needed the table to go with the farm,’’ he says — he decided to open a place in Great Barrington.

作为布鲁克林餐饮集团Marlow & Sons（旗下拥有Diner、Roman’s，以及威思酒店[Wythe Hotel]内的Reynard等餐厅）的创始人之一，马克·弗思(Mark Firth)帮助一种餐馆模式在纽约日渐兴起，他把乡村的感觉带到城市，而食物和装潢必须既朴素低调，又精致优雅。但是几年前，为了挑选当季食材而走访了几家农场之后，弗斯决定从城市回到乡村，于是搬到了伯克希尔。在农民作为一种职业已经无以为继之时，“我们需要用餐桌来搭配农场，”他说，于是决定在大巴灵顿开一家餐馆。

The free-standing clapboard house now known as Prairie Whale (a 19th-century euphemism for pig) is meandering and many-chambered — dark and romantic at night, sun-dappled and cozy in the morning — and the food is simple but deeply satisfying: crunchy-skinned buttermilk fried chicken with honey butter, cornbread and greens, and all manner of Firth’s carefully raised pork, including drippy fatty roasted bits sandwiched in squishy potato rolls, and house-made p琀é.

这栋装有楔形护墙板的独栋房屋，如今被称作“草原鲸鱼”（Prairie Whale，在19世纪是猪的委婉语），里面的布局曲径通幽，有着很多房间。在夜晚里，屋里灯光幽暗，气氛浪漫。到了上午，阳光斑驳，舒适惬意。这里的食物很简单，却能给人极大的满足感：外皮酥脆的乳酪炸鸡，配以蜂蜜黄油、玉米面包和绿色蔬菜，以及采用弗思通过精心饲养而获得的猪肉烹制的各式菜肴，包括夹在软糯的土豆卷里的多汁肉块，还有自制的馅饼。

It’s just an added attraction to this town 120 miles north of New York, with its welcoming community of aging hippies and young artists. Spend a day strolling through galleries and ice cream parlors before checking into the Briarcliff, a 1960s motor lodge converted into a charming boutique hotel, complete with mod furniture and homemade scones. (413)528-5050.

它为这个纽约以北120英里的城镇增加了又一个景点。这个友好的社区里居住着老去的嬉皮士和年轻的艺术家。在这里，人们可以花一天时间逛逛美术馆和冰淇淋店，然后再入住迷人的Briarcliff精品酒店，这里由上世纪60年代的汽车旅馆改造而成，有摩登派家具，并提供自制的烤饼。(413)528-5050.

The Corner, Tivoli, N.Y.

纽约蒂沃利的Corner餐厅

In 2013, the artists Brice and Helen Marden took over a century-old, 11-room hotel in the middle of Tivoli, an artsy, sleepy Hudson Valley hamlet close enough to Bard College to feel like a college town by association. Though Tivoli, about two hours by car or train from New York City, has long attracted a creative crowd, it had lost some of its allure with the hotel’s shuttering several years before. Now, the Mardens have revived both the building and the town at large with a colorful mix of contemporary, midcentury and custom-made furniture, lighting and décor, plus artworks by the couple and their friends, including Robert Rauschenberg, Julian Schnabel and Kiki Smith. But the newly crowned Hotel Tivoli’s real draw might be its restaurant and bar, the Corner, for which the chef Devon Gilroy — formerly of Chanterelle and A Voce — reserves the best local farms’ limited supplies of seasonal produce, sometimes just a few pounds each. A late-fall Saturday found him extolling the splendor of a crop of pimientos de padron, which he had flash-fried and dressed with Greek olive oil, sea salt and a sprinkling of sumac. Seared arctic char (sourced from a small supplier in Boston) was paired with meaty maitakes, foraged nearby, and the herbs and other garnishes came from Gilroy’s own garden, maintained on a plot of land behind one of Brice Marden’s nearby studios.

2013年，艺术家布莱斯(Brice Marden)和妻子海伦·马登(Helen)接手了一座位于蒂沃利中心地带的百年酒店，它共有11个房间。蒂沃利是哈得逊河谷的一个具有艺术气息的慵懒小镇，距离巴德学院(Bard College)相当近，以至于感觉有些像是一座大学城。虽然蒂沃利长期以来一直吸引着大量创意人士，随着这家酒店在几年前关闭，它的吸引力一度有所减弱。如今，马登夫妇重新为这座建筑和这座城镇注入了生命力，他们凭借的是各色当代、上世纪中期以及定制的家具、灯具和装饰，还有就是一些艺术作品，它们来自这对夫妇以及其友人，包括罗伯特·劳申贝格(Robert Rauschenberg)、朱利安·施纳贝尔(Julian Schnabel)和奇奇·史密斯(Kiki Smith)。然而，新的蒂沃利酒店的真正吸引力可能源自它的餐吧Corner，曾供职于Chanterelle and A Voce的主厨德文·吉尔罗伊(Devon Gilroy)为这里预订了当地农场的最好当季作物，这些食材都是限量供应，有时每种只有几斤而已。一个深秋的周六，他对一种小青椒赞不绝口，其烹饪方法是快速过油，然后洒上希腊橄榄油、海盐和漆树果粉。烤红点鲑（来自波士顿的一家小供货商）会搭配附近采摘的肥厚舞茸，和其他来自吉尔罗伊自家菜园的芳草与配菜。菜园就坐落在附近的布莱斯·马登工作室后面的一块土地上。网址：

Fish & Game, Hudson, N.Y.

纽约哈得逊的FISH & GAME

To have a meal at Fish & Game, which Zak Pelaccio opened after becoming disillusioned with his popular New York restaurants, Fatty Crab and Fatty ’Cue, is to feel a bit like you’ve walked onto a movie set. The interior of the former blacksmith shop is resplendently appointed, from the custom-built furniture to the tasteful taxidermy, and the cocktails are mixed with a New Orleans level of yet it’s not all for show: The roaring fireplace doubles as a rotisserie and the food tends to be as delicious as it is beautiful — aged duck breast with crackly charred skin; thick slabs of grainy porridge bread with cultured butter — and, except for seafood, hyper-local. In the antique-shopping mecca of Hudson, just a two-hour drive from Manhattan, Fish & Game has company in other city-worthy upstarts: The restaurant Crimson Sparrow, from a pair of former WD-50 chefs, is blocks away, as is the coyly retro Rivertown Lodge, located in a 1920s movie theater and designed by the same studio as Williamsburg’s Wythe Hotel. .

在Fish & Game用餐的感觉有点像进了电影片场。店主扎克·佩拉西奥(Zak Pelaccio)对他在纽约广受欢迎的餐馆Fatty Crab以及Fatty’Cue感到失望之后，开了这家餐厅。这家由铁匠铺改造的餐馆内部装潢精美华丽，从特制的家具，到格调高雅的标本。在这里，鸡尾酒的调制都带有一种新奥尔良式的戏剧性。然而这个餐厅绝不仅仅止于表面文章：火焰熊熊的壁炉还可以充当烤肉器，食物不光赏心悦目，还非常美味——陈化的鸭胸肉外酥里嫩；大块杂粮面包搭配发酵过的奶油。而且，除了海鲜之外，这里的美食都极其本地化。在距离曼哈顿只有两小时的车程的传统购物圣地哈德逊，还有其他媲美高档都市餐厅的同类创业餐厅：Crimson Sparrow，相距这里几个街区，店主是两位前WD-50的厨师；以及位于上世纪20年代留下的一座电影院里的Rivertown Lodge，其设计出自为威廉斯堡的Wythe酒店的装潢操刀的工作室。网址：.

The White Hart Inn, Salisbury, Conn.

康涅狄格州索尔兹伯里的白鹿旅馆

At first glance, the town of Salisbury, two and a half hours by car from New York, seems merely to embody Connecticut clichés: Its tiny, quiet center is both impeccably manicured and impeccably preppy (there are two boarding schools nearby). But the area is also surprisingly rural and activity-rich, with easy access to the Appalachian Trail and hiking paths in the Berkshires. For the English-born chef Annie Wayte, who made her name running the kitchens of the fashion designer Nicole Farhi’s acclaimed London and New York restaurants, Nicole’s and 202, cooking at the town’s 19th-century White Hart Inn feels like something of a homecoming: One of the farms from which she used to source ingredients is just a short drive away. In the elegantly spare dining room, she serves dishes like spaghetti squash bathed in rich broth and capped with a confit egg yolk, and roasted scallops atop beets and al dente kernels of freekeh. Afterward, guests can retire to the taproom for mulled cider, or walk upstairs to one of the inn’s 16 spacious rooms. .

表面上看，距离纽约两个半小时车程的索尔兹伯里城似乎只是康涅狄格司空见惯的那副景象：安静而小巧的中心地带，整洁得无可挑剔，充斥着一派私立学校气息（附近有两所寄宿学校）。但令人吃惊的是，这个区域也有着强烈的乡村色彩，丰富多样的活动。而且，人们从这里很容易抵达阿巴拉契亚国家步道和伯克郡的远足路径。在英国出生的主厨安妮·韦特(Annie Wayte)为时尚设计师妮科尔·法尔希(Nicole Farhi)经营伦敦和纽约的餐馆而声名鹊起。对于韦特来说，在建于19世纪的白鹿宾馆做饭，有种回家的感觉：她挑选食材的一家农场开车很快就可以抵达。在这个极简得很雅致的餐厅里，她提供了浸在浓汤里并铺有糖渍蛋黄的南瓜丝、放置在甜菜上的烤扇贝，以及嚼劲十足的福里克谷粒。餐后，客人们可以到酒吧间喝点热苹果酒，或者上楼到酒店的16间宽敞客房中休息。网址：